Archive for May, 2012


Living Green Magazine has one of my favourite by-lines: “where green is read”. Witty, ha?

Here’s my latest article there, thanks for the love, LGM!

Five new hydro-electric dams have been proposed in southern Chile, in the isolated region of Aysen close to Patagonia. The dams would be structured on the wild, raging Pascua and Baker rivers, which are some of the most bio-diverse waterways in the world.

They have the potential to generate enough energy to power Chile’s growing population and double the energy production in 10 years, which, in turn, makes this a highly controversial, large-scale unsustainable exploitation.

The $10-million project by multi-national developer HidroAysten would cause much environmental damage, on the rivers themselves, the nearby parks, as well as all along the 2,000 km-long transmission line which would transport that energy to the northern provinces.

The Chilean media here are reporting that the people are divided on the issue: they may favour the economic prospects, even though they are worried about the environment, but the growth of population has compromised the standards of living.

They say that the stability of the economy is at stake as much as the environment.
The motto, ‘Aysen: Reserve of Life’ is a predicament here: to prioritize the life for animals and nature, or the people who are trying to subsist there.

There are passages and roads and realms unknown, unseen
there are roads sometimes dark and narrow, and many voyages between.
Looking through the windows of stories going by, of places with nothing to hide..
yet when the passage is complete, something stays within us
And, if not, it will come to be..

(inspired by ‘The Door Within’) View full article »

There are so many adventures, I only have time to churn out segments. This was on that side of the Andes. Stay tuned for what’s happening on the Chilean side!

I wrote this article for living green magazine. Check it out in full here.

Mendoza is Argentina’s famous wine-producing region, with over 1700 wineries in the region. Argentina’s is the fifth-largest in the world, and Mendoza accounts for over 60% of it.

View full article »

Rio+20, T-28 days

Rio+20 UN Conference on Sustainable Development will be held ib a month in Brazil. The gathering takes place 20 years after Earth Summit of 1992, when the UN created forums which would go on to address climate change and biodiversity loss: the Rio Declaration, Agenda 21, the Biodiversity Treaty, and the Framework Convention on Climate Change - so 2 plans of action for governments and other influential parties, and 2 documents open to signing by governments that were legally binding.

Two decades later, back at the negotiating table, what must be done to see some results?

Now, a month before conference, the prospects for bringing a decisive change in the planet’s environmental problems and poverty are not very encouraging. Is mankind even incapable of putting an end to the destruction of Earth? By now those following the progress can say that the UN target of limiting global warming is no longer reachable.

The conference has three objectives: to combat this environmental crisis, eradicate poverty, and put growth on a sustainable path, with measures to stimulate the green economy. This sounds all too familiar..

There is, however, one major difference between now and the conference 20 years ago: a new powerful actor called the civil society. Although, despite all the climate change and the everyday evidence of what’s happening, we are still lacking global awareness, global citizenship, global loyalty, and.. continuous commitment.

It just seems like a scenario that’s grown increasingly rebellious, like a social movement that rejects the forces of corporate global power.

Battle lines seem to have been drawn along age-old lines of resentment and domination. The battle for a more equal sharing of the world’s resources is linked directly with the survival of the earth. Feelings of entitlement on both sides may lead to our own demise.

While we sort out our allegiances whether it be to our small, brief lives and what we can gain in them, or an allegiance to the planet, compromise and pragmatism would lead all sectors of society to engage in actions that they may at other times avoided.

Oppositional thinking will not be the path to our salvation. It is not ‘the economy’ or ‘the planet’. It is not ‘the north’ or ‘the south’. It may not even be ‘the rich’ and ‘the poor’.  These disparate concepts may be the very things standing in our way to being creative and flexible and seeing all human structures and systems as changeable and possibly as chaotic as the planet on which they have evolved.

A popular landmark, Recoleta cemetery, houses the famous spirits of Argentine revolutionary and literary past

It’s like a small walled city, with creepy but very picturesque crypts..

You never know what’s hidden there, until you, too, unleash your curiosity

View full article »

segments of life, Buenos Aires

The amount of meat consumed here is staggering, alarming in fact. I look at their shopping carts and my eyes pop.

But there are a lot of neighbourhood produce markets, almost on every corner in all parts of the city, even San Telmo, but especially in Palermo, Colegiales, Belgrano, Villa Ortuzar, Chacarita, Caballito and Almagro (the north-western areas of the city where I rode my bike daily), with rows of fresh fruit and vegetables that help balance out the needs. Certain markets have more exotic greens, such as ocra, and hot peppers.

I am shopping for my daily fix of produce. I spot the figs. I have a love affair with figs.

- cuanto cuestan los higos? [how much are the figs?]

- dos para un peso [two for a peso]

- solo un peso? tan barato! [just one peso? so cheap!]

- no, mi querida, dos para un beso [no, my dear, two for a kiss]

- ah, no es tan barato [oh, that's not as cheap]

He crinkles his eyes, tilts his head and smiles his toothless grin. I think this calls for a bargain.

- Quizaaas… un por un abrazo? [what do you saaaay to... one for a hug?]

- bueno, de acuerdo [alright, it's a deal]

-

My sister, ever a shopaholic, said she’s well on her way to Buenos Aires if this is how shopping here is done.

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the witches of Plaza Dorrego

Ah, the clichéd label “Paris of the Southern Hemisphere” you will see only in guidebooks. It does, however, indeed, remind of Paris. But mostly of Madrid. And to me, even of Belgrade. All the big European cities I love.

I suppose this is what it’s like when you’re always on the road: you take what’s dear along with you. Like memories and symbolisms.

My coup de foudre happened in San Telmo, where else? It was just so that I was viewing a room for rent on Calle Defensa on a Sunday.

Las calles de Buenos Aires

ya son mi entraña

-Borges

I think the owner was well aware of the effect of her request. I saw the street, I saw the crowd, I saw the dusty ornate facade and I was ready to cash out 2 months rent. Then I saw the improvisation of a bathroom, and the dream drained promptly.

I went back out on the street, sat on the sidewalk, hugged a glass of tinto, and resumed people-watching.

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I am walking down the leafy wide Avenida de Mayo trying to hide from the screaming March sun. A postcard catches my eye. It’s a painting of a couple dancing tango. A simple painting and layout, devoid of all the kitsch I hate in postcards. I stop to grab a few because, after all the video skyping and endless emails, I still believe in postcards.

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There is no guidebook that doesn’t recommend spending a day in the ‘impossibly picturesque and charming’ Colonia del Sacramento, a little town in Uruguay just an hour-long boat ride from Buenos Aires.

That very fact made me want to skip it, imagining all the people running around with their Lonely Planets and snapping the same pictures.

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on the sea

the sea is my brother,

inviting me on spontaneous travels as the true counterpart in freedom

late nights in port-side pubs and apartments immersed in hilarious conversations

gusty, salty air at daybreak

the recurring urges to escape from high civilization

and the beautiful, melancholic thievery of solitude

                              (inspired by Kerouac)

View full article »

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