Tag Archive: Japan


Tokyo

Tokyo Metro is not open 24/7, contrary to (my/some) beliefs. And its hours dictate the night life. Unless you catch a ride back home at midnight, Cinderella, you’re going hardcore – until the break of dawn.

But not to worry – there are plenty of options for you in case you’re stranded. Because Tokyo has you covered: you can rock all night long in manga cafes, karaoke rooms, izakayas, drinking and chlling dives, jazz bars, superclubs, etc.

New York & London, take note.

~

Golden Gai is a very eccentric little neighbourhood near Shinjuku station (just off the famed Kabuki-cho red light district) with rows upon rows of over 250 amazing little bars, literally holes in the wall. Each with their own quirky features, design and a set of clientele, straight out of a movie scenario.

A few even have English names, like Tomorrow or Albatross, which are easier to find but your best bet is to have a wander and gauge which vibe suits you best, then try your luck (some are ‘members only’ or simply prefer not to serve foreigners). View full article »

shadow play

Sword Dance and Shadowgraph, a live theatre performance with interactive computer-generated imagery, from Tokyo’s Galaxy Theatre, performed by Taichi Saotome.

Katana is defending himself against many (animated shadow) adversaries in a simulated fight choreography (shown as a CGI presentation). It’s a spectacular fusion of live theatre performance and computer-generated art, all broadcasted on youtube. New horizons in arts and media..

Tsukiji fish market, Tokyo

massive tuna fish, all ready for sale

the characters of Tsukiji

anticipation builds up as the auction kicks off, going once..

commotion before the auction

This article, transcribed here in its entirety, was published in the National Geographic Magazine on November 1995.

Enjoy.

Then book a flight to Tokyo.

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The importance of fish to the Japanese diet and the country’s economy is well illustrated by Tokyo’s huge fish market. This article from National Geographic explores the Tsukiji, the Tokyo Central Wholesale Market, which is one of the largest wholesale fish outlets in the world.

THE GREAT TOKYO FISH MARKET – TSUKIJI

Frozen assets, bluefin tuna worth top yen are readied for Tsukiji’s morning auction. The market’s clamourous labyrinth of stalls showcases all manner of seafood – from live sea eel to pickled octopus – and reflects well-ordered confusion of Japanese society. Says Tsukiji scholar Ted Bestor, “Tsukiji revels as much about Japanese culture as it does about Japanese cuisine.”

By T.R. Reid

Hawking the World’s Costliest Fish

A torrent of transactions wrings sweat from auctioneer Masami Eguchi, who sells 200 tuna in half an hour, or about one every nine seconds. “I have to recognize the highest bidder instantly, ” Eguchi says. “No delays are allowed.” Casting sidelong glances like high-stakes poker players, silent buyers signal bids for numbered tuna with hand gestures. By fingering slivers of flesh beneath a flashlight, bidders discern subtle distinctions in fat content and colour, key selling points that sway the price of a premium tuna from $6,500-$11,000 – and up.

The long, cold trip to Tokyo came to an end for tuna number 197 with a thud, a bonk, and one last cavernous clunk as the huge fish toppled off the truck and skittered across the slippery concrete floor. Two, maybe three days earlier, this torpedo-shaped bluefin had been searching for its supper in the chilly waters off Boston. Now—netted, gutted, flash-frozen to 76 degrees below zero, and transported via cargo jet halfway around the world—197 was itself on the verge of becoming somebody’s supper, served up on the polished wooden counter of a sushi bar where diners would pay $11 an ounce for this succulent delicacy.

The place that transformed 197 from just another fish in the sea to one of the world’s most expensive foodstuffs is a sprawling, teeming, cacophonous corner of reclaimed land on the edge of Tokyo Bay. Its formal name is the Tokyo Central Wholesale Market, but in Tokyo everybody calls the place Tsukiji (pronounced skee-jee), for the neighborhood where the market stands. Fairly substantial quantities of meat, mushrooms, maple syrup, pickles, potatoes, peaches, and other foods move through this market every day. But the heart and soul of Tsukiji is fish.

View full article »

While I am still assembling experiences and conceptualizing the (wait for it) brilliant articles on Japan, especially the wind-up Tokyo chronicles, here are a few youtube videos that portray or capture some must-sees that are just so, quintessentially, amazingly, Japanese:

Golden Gai, a quaint little area near Shinjuku station for great dusk-til-dawn pub crawls, comprising of over 250 incredible tiny and quirky bars:

Shomben Yokocho, another small area just behind Shinjuku station full of izakayas that specialize in yakitori (grilled food on a skewer – mostly chicken & meat, some veggies. Similar to kebab)

View full article »

Shibuya

Media and other technologies, as well as individuals, texts, and institutions, each have different potentialities and means of transforming and re-presenting urban space and time and its power geometries.

Shibuya is located in the southwest pocket of central city Tokyo on the traditionally affluent western high ground, the yamanote of Edo times.

Although Tokyo lacks a “downtown” in the western sense, it does contain within itself a number of extraordinarily dense and thriving satellite feeder “cities” such as Shinjuku, Shibuya, and Ikebukuro, many of which are located on the central JR (Japan Rail) Yamanote loop line.

For a huge number of Tokyo’s sizeable population they are also a crucial nodal point connecting the spaces of work, leisure, and home; as such they are sites of rapid in- and out-flows of bodies of commuters and visitors (Shibuya is ranked second after Shinjuku as the busiest commuter rail station in the world).

The spatial organization of Shibuya generally matches the standardized urban morphology found in a range of similar Japanese city districts. This consists of a central railway station acting as a hub to clusters of retail areas, amusement quarters, business office blocks, a love hotel area, and then a peripheral belt of residential apartment housing.

It is perhaps most usefully understood as a contemporary manifestation of the Japanese historical urban form of the sakariba, literally a “place where many people come together”, an uplifting place of crowds and excitement, a site where older ritual forms of festivity and commercial activity have been recast in a modern consumerist guise.

——

This is a segment from Un/Wrapping Shibuya: Place, Media, and Punctualization. Space and Culture.

Murakami

“Sometimes fate is like a small sandstorm that keeps changing directions. You change direction but the sandstorm chases you. You turn again, but the storm adjusts.

Over and over you play this out, like some ominous dance with death just before dawn. Why? Because this storm isn’t something that blew in from far away, something that has nothing to do with you.

This storm is you.

Something inside of you.

So all you can do is give in to it, step right inside the storm, closing your eyes and plugging up your ears so the sand doesn’t get in, and walk through it, step by step.

There’s no sun there, no moon, no direction, no sense of time. Just fine white sand swirling up into the sky like pulverized bones. That’s the kind of sandstorm you need to imagine.

An you really will have to make it through that violent, metaphysical, symbolic storm.

No matter how metaphysical or symbolic it might be, make no mistake about it: it will cut through flesh like a thousand razor blades.

And once the storm is over you won’t remember how you made it through, how you managed to survive.

You won’t even be sure, in fact, whether the storm is really over. But one thing is certain. When you come out of the storm you won’t be the same person who walked in. That’s what this storm’s all about.”

- Haruku Murakami. Kafka on the Shore.

JapanGO!

Not long ago here I still dreamed..

And dreams, indeed, do come true. I am fulfilling my promise to myself, in a twisted mismanagement of destiny.

I am off to Japan for a few weeks, and ahead of me is a pristine tabula rasa of no plans or itineraries, just more dreams and a whole mind open to new experiences and new adventures.

I just watched Lost in Translation in a feeble attempt to rein in my excitement.

My plans include Tokyo and its hyper-everything. Followed by, ideally, Nikko, with an array of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Kyoto and its ancient splendours are another must. Osaka and Nara, probably as well.

In particular, I am looking forward to a 2-day visit and an overnight stay at Mt Koya, or Koyasan where I’ll walk among temples and sacred burial sites, and meditate and fast with buddhist monks.

Hiroshima – still up in the air. no pun intended And possibly Nagasaki.

Ideally, I would have liked to take it up North and explore Hokkaido, but apparently, November is not a great time for that area.

 

Tokyo neighbourhoods

Think of Tokyo as a variety of neighborhoods scrunched together, much like the pieces of a jigsaw puzzle. Holding the pieces together, so to speak, is the Yamanote Line, a commuter train loop around central Tokyo, passing through such important stations as Yurakucho, Tokyo, Akihabara, Ueno, Ikebukuro, Shinjuku, Harajuku, Shibuya, and Shinagawa.

Hibiya – This is not only the business heart of Tokyo, but its spiritual heart as well. Hibiya is where the Tokugawa shogun built his magnificent castle, and was thus the center of old Edo.

Akihabara – Japan’s foremost shopping destination for electronic and electrical appliances, in recent years has also become a mecca for fans of anime and manga.

Asakusa – historically served as the pleasure quarters for old Edo. The street’s atmosphere alone makes it one of the most enjoyable places to shop for Japanese souvenirs.

Shinjuku – major transport hub and a bustling shopping district, the area is also known for its nightlife, especially in Kabuki-cho, one of Japan’s most famous — and naughtiest — amusement centres.

Harajuku – The mecca of Tokyo’s younger generation, Harajuku swarms throughout the week with teenagers in search of fashion and fun.

Ryogoku – sumo central! You can often see the giants as they stroll the district in their characteristic yukata robes.

Odaiba – the new district, constructed from reclaimed land in Tokyo Bay. One of Tokyo’s hottest dating spots.

The rest from NY Times, originally published Nov 2006.

top of the list

Tokyo.

How many nights have I dreamt about walking the streets, eating the sushi, mingling with the Harajuku girls, riding the subway, de-coding the language? How much longer can I endure imagining myself there without actually going?

I am going. I promised myself that Tokyo will see me by the end of this year.

I have an automatic radar that ignites whenever I hear something about (or anything associated with) Japan. It automatically triggers this acute desire to grab a passport and catch the very next flight.

Similar to what I feel when I think about London, although memories and mentions of London are mainly overwhelming nostalgia.

I am eager to be submerged in its vibrancy, its distinctly-Japanese organized chaos, the sheer magnitude of people, places, new culture – which I imagine on the completely opposite end of spectrum form anything I am familiar and comfortable with. But I crave that level of unease as a challenge to myself!

This is what I’m most looking forward to:

- Shibuya, Shinjuku, Harajuku, Ginza, Akihabara, Roppongi neighbourhoods – the hyperurbanity, the insane fashions, the onslaught of consumerism and trendiness,

Tsukiji fish market, here I should say I blame that National Geographic Magazine’s November 1995 article for all the hype: the biggest, liveliest fish market in the world where the most coveted seafood is sanctioned each morning for the millions of residents and visitors. As this capital of the East is the capital of sushi, that makes me trust what’s going on in Tsukiji every morning.

- and, as it follows, some real, raw sushi! I’ll even have it for breakfast, if that’s what the Romans in Rome do.. I hope they don’t drink sake at breakfast though.

- a visit to the baths, and especially the renowned Ooedo with its traditional hot pools, steams, massages, treatments, and conduct, I hope. Wooden slip-on shoes?

- the Shinto shrine, the Meiji shrine, and numerous temples; and perhaps I’ll learn how to read/write my fortune in Japanese, so that I can tie it in the wind there for future luck;

- the everyday-is-a-Halloween in Harajuku fashions; looking forward to photographing them!

- maybe have someone commission a Manga drawing of me?

- buying underwear and bananas from a vending machine (not from the same one? or .. who knows)

- sleeping in a capsule!

- partying at Womb, the legendary nightclub;

- going to the high-tech wc (silly, I know.. but what the western world doesn’t know…)

- riding the metro at rush hour; oh, yes, I am, among a sea of grey suits;

- and all to-be-discovered hidden spots, tiny places that locals would know about and where they would head.

 

But mostly, I would just like to be there, and just be.

 

And so, I did..!

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